Photo of the Week

This shot is of the famous surf spot "Gas Chambers" located in Puerto Rico.  As the fall season continues to be wealthy with big waves surfers are having the time of there life under the Caribbean sun.

Fatal Shark Attack in Santa Barbara, CA

Some sad and shocking news hit the county of Santa Barbara, California this past Friday morning.  19 year-old college student Lucas Ransom was bit by a shark while body boarding (boogie boarding) at the Vandenberg Air Force Base's surf beach.  Lucas was apparently enjoying a decent swell that brought great waves to this popular surfing beach.  His friend  who was surfing (whose name was not mentioned) saw Lucas go under for a brief moment and then realized he was being attacked by a shark.  The shark bit his leg and took a chunk out of his body board and by the time his friend assisted him to safety along with other officials from the air force base, it was too late. 

After shark experts studied the bite on Lucas's board along with several tooth fragments which were stuck into the board their was no doubt that it was a Great White shark that caused this deadly attack.  The Great White was anywhere from 17 to 18 feet long and weighing 4,000 pounds.  This specific shark species is known to be "the perfect predator" and often body boarders and surfers are confused to be seals which is the sharks primary source of food.  This shark attack was the 13th deadly shark attack reported in California and has reminded many surfers and body boarders the dangers that can happen in the sport.  Anyone in the surf should always respect it and realize that you are in their territory, as far as Lucas their is no doubt in his extreme courage and passion to paddle out in the unexpected yet dangerous waters. 

Friends and fellow surfers in Santa Barbabra will paddle back out where the incident occurred later this week.  They will circle up and hold hands in remembrance of Lucas, then a Hawaiian lay will be placed in the circle as a blessing from the surf gods.  Lucas will never be forgotten in the sport that unfortunately took his life.

Photo of the Week

Kelly Slater going big with a huge backside air at the Rip Curl Pro in Portugal.  The contest ended last week with Kelly Slater gaining yet another contest gold medal making it it his 3rd gold medal this year.  He is surfing better than ever and he is ranked 1st on the ASP tour.  There are two contests left, can't wait to see him in action again!

Surf, Rocks and Reggae

Long Island's coastline stretches over 100 miles from New York City all the way to Montauk Point.  The island is home to many patient surfers who wait for tropical storms and hurricanes that roar up the coast usually in the early Fall.  For those who can't stand the cold water, the summer is their only option to take advantage of LI's white sand beaches.  One person in particular has juggled between being a famous performer as well as a local surfer in the small town of Montauk which is on the very tip of the island.  His name is Jimmy Buffett and surfers as well as spectators are filled with excitement whenever they see him at Ditch Plains.

Ditch Plains has a reputation for being a long boarders paradise as well as a nicely kept town beach.  Every summer hundreds of people take in the sun and ride some of the best waves Montauk has to offer.  The rocky bottom makes an almost perfect left hand wave when the wind is right what lures long boarders in from sunrise to sunset.  Being a resident on Long Island and a surfer who frequently travels to Ditch Plains in the summer I can really appreciate the 60's surf culture that is felt amongst the people.  This is one thing that lures Jimmy into surfing Ditch, the people are friendly and it's a home away from home.  It wasn't until this past summer until I finally got the opportunity to meet Jimmy.  It was such an excitement because not only am I a huge an of his work as a musician but also he was a real nice down to earth guy just looking to have fun.  I approached him by asking about the surf and right away we sparked a conversation.  After we spoke we paddled into the lineup.  When we were out there along the side of the rocks we only talked for about ten minutes until we were both concentrating on the surf.  To this day I am for sure that it was my "Almost Famous" moment.  Come on doesn't everyone deserve one?

You can always see Jimmy Buffett at Ditch Plains in the summertime (that is when he isn't to busy writing a new song for his next album), even when he is not there you can obtain the care free vibe.  He drives down to Montauk during the weekdays when it is less crowded and he parks in the Ditch Plains dirt parking lot less than a minute away from the beach.  His van is very noticeable, big green and retro style and surprisingly it only runs on vegetable oil.  Whether he is riding waves or getting a snack at the famous concession stand, The Ditch Witch, locals never hesitate to welcome Jimmy as he welcomes others.  If you happen to see him be sure to ask him whats good on the menu at the Witch!

Photo Of The Week

Pictures have finally been uploaded from two weeks ago when Hurrican Igor sent huge barelling waves across the East Coast.  The pic is of one of my local spots on Long Island that got hit hard with the storm, bringing sick waves for almost a week!

Clay Marzo: Just Add Water

Clay Marzo.  Two words that say so much in the surfing world.  Whether you see him on Hawaii's coast ripping big airs or waiting for a set of waves as he anxiously rubs his hands there's no way of denying his talent.  Clay has produced some of the best movies to come out in surfing such as: Young Guns I and II, Fish Out of Water and Stranger than Fiction.  Also he has made himself known as a pro surfer at the young age of sixteen when he moved to the west coast of Maui.  Around the same time the  unique "big air" style surfer was challenged with a lot more than just trying to succeed in catching waves. 

In 2007 Clay was diagnosed with asperger syndrome which is a case of Autism.  What makes this young gun so interesting is that when he was diagnosed, doctors told him the best medicine was in fact staying in the water and doing what he loves best, the challenge at hand (which is very rare) is brought upon Clay when he is outside of the water.  People with an Autism syndrome such as asperger has a limited set of interests that they succeed in, in Marzo's case it's Surfing in god's best gift to nature, the water.  While in the water studies shows Clay acting natural by collecting his facts and figures meaning he feels at one with family, friends and fellow surf peers.  His constant rubbing of hands while surfing is his natural way of releasing his stress prior to the water.

It is so confusing to many including myself because those who have never seen him rip up head-high, barrelling sets with big ass airs, are really missing out.  This kid has so much talent in the water he doesn't know what to do with it.  Although he might seem to get more attention in the surfing world due to his case of Autism (don't be fooled kooks - beginning surfers),but  I wouldn't drop in on him (cut him off on a wave) any day of the week.

Photo of the Week

Big wave rider Rudi Schwartz took a painful wipe out yesterday at one of Australia's famous spots,Shipterns, located at the heart of the Gold Coast.  It took Rudi two hours to get to safety after the wipe out that almost took his life.  We all know he'll be back ASAP to test out some more big wave spots.  This kid's got some balls.

Mick Fanning speaks French, a not so easy second year victory at the Quiksolver Pro France

Mick Fanning (AUS), 29, defeats Kelly Slater at the Quiksilver Pro finals in France.

The seventh event of the ASP world tour had an exciting and somewhat dramatic outcome to say the least.  Mick Fanning stunned everyone including finals opponent and nine-time champ Kelly Slater this past Saturday in Culs Nus Beach, France.

Not only courage but heavy doses of skill made the Quiksilver Pro France end in an exciting manner for the second time champ, Fanning.  Getting "barrelled" was the saying of the day, as mother nature brought roaring surf throughout the coast of France.  Pulling inside of the waves hollow tube AKA getting "barrelled" was a common thing for both of the finalist this past Saturday.  It was one of the best competitions along with the best conditions of the ASP world tour event.  Waves were ranging from 6 to 8 feet and breaking onto a beach break (all sandy bottom) that was only four feet deep.  These treacherous conditions couldn't even compare to last years sloppy and small conditions in France which made this year's event "stick out" from the other competitions.

Fanning's victory boosted him from 5th to 3rd in the tour.  Surfers are charging hard due to the fact that their are only three more stops til the tour is over.  In a later interview Fanning had little to say, though he seemed stunned he managed to spit out the words, "That was difficult."