Photo of the Week

This is what can happen if you don't know what you're doing at Pipeline.  Picture was taken a few days ago at the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. Wonder if his head is still hurting?

Bozaii Pipeline: Locals only, shitty wipeouts and one of the best experiences of your life!

Hawaii’s most known spot has been getting off to a good start this winter with waves reaching 20 ft!  The famous Bonzaii Pipeline located on Hawaii’s sister island is one of the many surfing beaches located on the island’s vigorous North Shore.  Larger than usual swells have been hitting Pipeline since the beginning of November which is unusually early compared to previous years.  One thing you won’t hear from the North Shore locals are complaints.  Early morning surf sessions have been packed as usual even before the sunlight hits the water’s surface.  I’m sure Kala Alexander and the rest of the Wolfpak gang are taking full advantage of blocking the waves for local surfers.

The infamous Kala Alexander, one of my favorite surfers, is the known creator of the Wolfpak.  The Wolfpak is a group (they have even been called a surf gang) of local surfers who live next to or close to Pipeline and try to spread the idea of respect for the local surfers.  The idea they try to promote is to live up to their ancestor’s name.  For years Hawaiian surfers have been very particular in who paddles out into the line-up of waves and where they are doing it.  Out-of-towners were always easy to find at Pipeline because of their stylish boards, rash guards with a perfect fit and even “cocky” attitudes which are often picked up by Kala and the boys.  The Wolfpak has been known to show aggressive localism (not letting others catch waves) and have even taken things to physical measures.  Kala Alexander has stated several times, “Me and the boys aren’t looking for fights, we just want the same respect from people as if we were surfing at their home spot.”

Within the past couple of decades there has been an abundance of surfers and even viewers going to Pipeline to see what’s going on.  People travel hundreds of miles to see some of the bravest surfer’s paddles into 20ft plus sized waves which break over a very sharp coral reef which is not even ten feet deep.  Yes, ten feet deep… big balls and an open mind are needed before even paddling out into what most people call “hell’s doorstep.”

Although both the Wolfpak and the coral reef seem like reasons to avoid Bonzaii Pipeline, the surf spot is legendary and can truly be a one of a kind experience.   Just keep in mind to respect the locals and try and learn about the historical surf scene that has been there for almost a century.  The Bonzaii Pipeline masters will be held a week from today, Dec. 8^th, making it the final and most exciting stop on the ASP tour. 

Check out the links below to see footage from Pipeline...

Clink the link below to see the worst wipeouts of the year!

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/featured-clips/pipeouts_50484

Click the link below to see the best rides at Pipeline!

http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/featured-clips/pipeline-swell-highlights_50284

Photo of the Week

Within a week Hawaii's most known surf spot Pipeline has gone from flat conditions to waves reaching up to 15 feet!  This is perfect conditions from the contests to come...

Check out this clip from REEF's new movie: From Cancer to Capricorn, The Path of the Modern Gypsy

Reef's surf movie can be described in two words.  Grom central.  This movie focuses on the younger guys who travel the world in search of the perfect wave.  Get this movie while it's still in the surf shops, if this doesn't make you want to travel I don't know what will!

Click the link below to see some clips!

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/promo-player.cfm?id=48775&slintcid=PB-REEFMOVIE&slcmpname=PROMOBOX-REEFMOVIE-GYPSY

Photo of the Week

Kelly Slater celebrates his tenth world title!  The title was secured after the event in Puerto Rico where Slater made surfing history and is the first ever to win ten world titles.  While receiving the award he stated "If it wasn't for Andy, I wouldn't be here right now," Kelly was one of Andy Irons very good friend who always supported him.  Slater also said, "I'd give this title away in a second if Andy could come back. He was one of the last people I saw in Portugal; he hugged me and said 'I want you to win this thing.'' It is obvoius to see  how he is a true hero.  Congrats Kelly!

A Sad and Shocking Day for the Surf World: RIP Andy Irons

Andy Irons aka Kauai's favorite son has died at age 32.  The three-time world champion was one of the most recognizable faces in the surfing world and his death was not only surprising but very sad to his family, friends, fellow surfers, loving sponsors and myself among many other fans.

It was reported that Andy died from Dengue Fever which was obtained while competing in the Rip Curl Pro Search in Puerto Rico.  Irons was headed back to his hometown in Hawaii from Puerto Rico because he was unable to continue the surf event.  He was unable to board his layover flight from Dallas to Kauai due to the illness and was found dead in his hotel room early Tuesday morning.  His family told doctors and officials that he was severely dehydrated and barely able to stand before he tried to attend the flight home.

Dengue fever is known as "breakbone" fever because of how painful it really is.  The illness can be obtained from mosquito's and have symptoms including high fever, severe headache, and pain in joints, bones and muscles.  All of the following signs gave friends and family members the indication that something wasn't right and Andy immediately pulled out of the surf contest.  He was treated immediately but this rapid moving fever got to the best of him. 

                                                                                                          

Andy will always be remembered not only as a surfing champion and legend but also as a great son, brother and husband.  His pregnant wife is mourning with the Irons family as thousands are continuing to support them for their lose.  Andy's family members have asked to respect their families privacy as well as thanking everyone for their support during this difficult time.  Andy Irons' courageous style of surfing will always be cherished and never forgotten.  Rest in Peace bro. Mahalo.

Photo of the Week

Todos Santos is an Island located a few miles off of the Baja Peninsula, Mexico.  This big wave producing surf spot is also known as a surfers burial ground which can hold waves as big as 50ft.  Surfers can rally test to see how big their balls are because they're not alone out there.  That's right, it's not uncommon to see a few sets of shark fins swimming alongside those waves!

Destination Baja: Scorpion Bay, Mexico

"Baja Mexico is one of the nicest places in the world."  Well that's what my uncle told me last year after he experienced it while on his honeymoon vacation with my Aunt.  He was explaining to me in detail how Scorpion Bay located in the Baja peninsula of Mexico has so many natural beauties.  As well as little bungalows right on the beach, a great little restaurant to go to for the freshest fish taco's and even how they rented dune buggies and raced them on the beach.  It wasn't until the end of the story which really intrigued me to make in my first and foremost vacation on my bucket list.  Even though all of the following things to do and what to eat made me interested in Baja, Mexico, it was when he mentioned a small little detail at the end of his story that made our conversation last about an hour and a half longer.  It is when my uncle said, "Oh yea, there was also some of the best waves I have ever seen!"

Being a surfer who loves to travel I have always heard and seen surfing videos of surfers riding perfect waves in Mexico.  The word perfect was an extreme understatement as soon as I researched surfing in Scorpion Bay, Baja after my uncle told me about it.  I had hundreds of questions to ask after I saw pictures online and I honestly think I overwhelmed him a little bit.

Scorpion Bay's surf is produced from a constant ground swell that opens up and releases literally one of the best waves on earth.  The waves is formed when the ground swell hits the rocks which are located on the right hand side of the rocky bottom ocean floor.  On a really good day surfers can experience rides that are over a 1/4 mile long and sometimes longer. These perfect right handed waves makes it a surfers paradise and besides all of the things my uncle already enlightened me about Baja, there's more.  It is known for not having big crowds to compete with waves, you can take a car to drive you back up to the "jumping spot" so you don't have to paddle back out into the lineup and it is even really inexpensive to accommodate guests.

After googling some pictures or even going on to YouTube to see real footage of the waves, I'm sure you will be as hooked as I was.  Scorpion Bay has also been written about and feautured In Men's Health Magazine in the top 20 places to go in your lifetime as well as various traveling and surfing magazines.  So after you do a little bit of research get your surfing buds together and plan the trip.  In the words of my uncle, "It was an amazing place to go!"

Interested in going on a surf trip to Scorpion Bay?  Check out this link below!

http://www.scorpionbay.net/index.php

Photo of the Week

This shot is of the famous surf spot "Gas Chambers" located in Puerto Rico.  As the fall season continues to be wealthy with big waves surfers are having the time of there life under the Caribbean sun.

Fatal Shark Attack in Santa Barbara, CA

Some sad and shocking news hit the county of Santa Barbara, California this past Friday morning.  19 year-old college student Lucas Ransom was bit by a shark while body boarding (boogie boarding) at the Vandenberg Air Force Base's surf beach.  Lucas was apparently enjoying a decent swell that brought great waves to this popular surfing beach.  His friend  who was surfing (whose name was not mentioned) saw Lucas go under for a brief moment and then realized he was being attacked by a shark.  The shark bit his leg and took a chunk out of his body board and by the time his friend assisted him to safety along with other officials from the air force base, it was too late. 

After shark experts studied the bite on Lucas's board along with several tooth fragments which were stuck into the board their was no doubt that it was a Great White shark that caused this deadly attack.  The Great White was anywhere from 17 to 18 feet long and weighing 4,000 pounds.  This specific shark species is known to be "the perfect predator" and often body boarders and surfers are confused to be seals which is the sharks primary source of food.  This shark attack was the 13th deadly shark attack reported in California and has reminded many surfers and body boarders the dangers that can happen in the sport.  Anyone in the surf should always respect it and realize that you are in their territory, as far as Lucas their is no doubt in his extreme courage and passion to paddle out in the unexpected yet dangerous waters. 

Friends and fellow surfers in Santa Barbabra will paddle back out where the incident occurred later this week.  They will circle up and hold hands in remembrance of Lucas, then a Hawaiian lay will be placed in the circle as a blessing from the surf gods.  Lucas will never be forgotten in the sport that unfortunately took his life.

Photo of the Week

Kelly Slater going big with a huge backside air at the Rip Curl Pro in Portugal.  The contest ended last week with Kelly Slater gaining yet another contest gold medal making it it his 3rd gold medal this year.  He is surfing better than ever and he is ranked 1st on the ASP tour.  There are two contests left, can't wait to see him in action again!

Surf, Rocks and Reggae

Long Island's coastline stretches over 100 miles from New York City all the way to Montauk Point.  The island is home to many patient surfers who wait for tropical storms and hurricanes that roar up the coast usually in the early Fall.  For those who can't stand the cold water, the summer is their only option to take advantage of LI's white sand beaches.  One person in particular has juggled between being a famous performer as well as a local surfer in the small town of Montauk which is on the very tip of the island.  His name is Jimmy Buffett and surfers as well as spectators are filled with excitement whenever they see him at Ditch Plains.

Ditch Plains has a reputation for being a long boarders paradise as well as a nicely kept town beach.  Every summer hundreds of people take in the sun and ride some of the best waves Montauk has to offer.  The rocky bottom makes an almost perfect left hand wave when the wind is right what lures long boarders in from sunrise to sunset.  Being a resident on Long Island and a surfer who frequently travels to Ditch Plains in the summer I can really appreciate the 60's surf culture that is felt amongst the people.  This is one thing that lures Jimmy into surfing Ditch, the people are friendly and it's a home away from home.  It wasn't until this past summer until I finally got the opportunity to meet Jimmy.  It was such an excitement because not only am I a huge an of his work as a musician but also he was a real nice down to earth guy just looking to have fun.  I approached him by asking about the surf and right away we sparked a conversation.  After we spoke we paddled into the lineup.  When we were out there along the side of the rocks we only talked for about ten minutes until we were both concentrating on the surf.  To this day I am for sure that it was my "Almost Famous" moment.  Come on doesn't everyone deserve one?

You can always see Jimmy Buffett at Ditch Plains in the summertime (that is when he isn't to busy writing a new song for his next album), even when he is not there you can obtain the care free vibe.  He drives down to Montauk during the weekdays when it is less crowded and he parks in the Ditch Plains dirt parking lot less than a minute away from the beach.  His van is very noticeable, big green and retro style and surprisingly it only runs on vegetable oil.  Whether he is riding waves or getting a snack at the famous concession stand, The Ditch Witch, locals never hesitate to welcome Jimmy as he welcomes others.  If you happen to see him be sure to ask him whats good on the menu at the Witch!

Photo Of The Week

Pictures have finally been uploaded from two weeks ago when Hurrican Igor sent huge barelling waves across the East Coast.  The pic is of one of my local spots on Long Island that got hit hard with the storm, bringing sick waves for almost a week!

Clay Marzo: Just Add Water

Clay Marzo.  Two words that say so much in the surfing world.  Whether you see him on Hawaii's coast ripping big airs or waiting for a set of waves as he anxiously rubs his hands there's no way of denying his talent.  Clay has produced some of the best movies to come out in surfing such as: Young Guns I and II, Fish Out of Water and Stranger than Fiction.  Also he has made himself known as a pro surfer at the young age of sixteen when he moved to the west coast of Maui.  Around the same time the  unique "big air" style surfer was challenged with a lot more than just trying to succeed in catching waves. 

In 2007 Clay was diagnosed with asperger syndrome which is a case of Autism.  What makes this young gun so interesting is that when he was diagnosed, doctors told him the best medicine was in fact staying in the water and doing what he loves best, the challenge at hand (which is very rare) is brought upon Clay when he is outside of the water.  People with an Autism syndrome such as asperger has a limited set of interests that they succeed in, in Marzo's case it's Surfing in god's best gift to nature, the water.  While in the water studies shows Clay acting natural by collecting his facts and figures meaning he feels at one with family, friends and fellow surf peers.  His constant rubbing of hands while surfing is his natural way of releasing his stress prior to the water.

It is so confusing to many including myself because those who have never seen him rip up head-high, barrelling sets with big ass airs, are really missing out.  This kid has so much talent in the water he doesn't know what to do with it.  Although he might seem to get more attention in the surfing world due to his case of Autism (don't be fooled kooks - beginning surfers),but  I wouldn't drop in on him (cut him off on a wave) any day of the week.

Photo of the Week

Big wave rider Rudi Schwartz took a painful wipe out yesterday at one of Australia's famous spots,Shipterns, located at the heart of the Gold Coast.  It took Rudi two hours to get to safety after the wipe out that almost took his life.  We all know he'll be back ASAP to test out some more big wave spots.  This kid's got some balls.

Mick Fanning speaks French, a not so easy second year victory at the Quiksolver Pro France

Mick Fanning (AUS), 29, defeats Kelly Slater at the Quiksilver Pro finals in France.

The seventh event of the ASP world tour had an exciting and somewhat dramatic outcome to say the least.  Mick Fanning stunned everyone including finals opponent and nine-time champ Kelly Slater this past Saturday in Culs Nus Beach, France.

Not only courage but heavy doses of skill made the Quiksilver Pro France end in an exciting manner for the second time champ, Fanning.  Getting "barrelled" was the saying of the day, as mother nature brought roaring surf throughout the coast of France.  Pulling inside of the waves hollow tube AKA getting "barrelled" was a common thing for both of the finalist this past Saturday.  It was one of the best competitions along with the best conditions of the ASP world tour event.  Waves were ranging from 6 to 8 feet and breaking onto a beach break (all sandy bottom) that was only four feet deep.  These treacherous conditions couldn't even compare to last years sloppy and small conditions in France which made this year's event "stick out" from the other competitions.

Fanning's victory boosted him from 5th to 3rd in the tour.  Surfers are charging hard due to the fact that their are only three more stops til the tour is over.  In a later interview Fanning had little to say, though he seemed stunned he managed to spit out the words, "That was difficult." 

Quiksliver Pro France; Difficult Conditions for Day Two

Day two at the Quiksilver Pro France and surfer's are faced with small conditions making it hard to get through round 2.  Wildcard entry Julian Wilson (AUS) defeated Bede Durbidge (AUS) with a long backhand barrel.  The defeat was a shock to many due to the fact that the 77th ranked Wilson put out the flames on Durbidge. This ended his streak of wins from the past few contests.  Also, former nine time champion and first ranked ASP pro, Slater, survived round two but without ease.  Kelly was wave-starved going after any set and making best of the small conditions.  Slater defeated wildcard entry and home favorite Maxime Huscenot (FRA), Maxime put up a fight and surfed well despite the tough conditions that forced judges to call off day two of the Pro event being held in France.  The contest will continue tomorrow morning at 8am where conditions will hopefully be as entertaining as day one of the Quiksilver Pro.

Junior Pro's take advantage of perfect surf without getting "sea sick"

It's time to get out of the wet suit and into a pool of chlorine for the next perfect surf session.  Junior pro's such as Kolohe "Brother" Andino and and Evan Geiselman have been known to shred it in the competitions but many are intrigued with the new stunts and airs they are pulling at the new wave pool park in FLA.  This one of a kind wave pool opened a few years ago when Mr. Grom himself, Clay Marzo, started showing many advancements with never before seen airs and grabs.  Now,  acres upon acres of land is still enough room to occupy the new guys,  Kolohe and Evan, to bust out big 360 aerials in the pool that provides head high perfect surf.  The arena also contains multiple "surf trampolines" that  Marzo was the first to try out the signature trampoline boards to practice big airs.

Wave pools are becoming more and more popular within the surf culture but this Florida hot spot has been known to host contests, special events, as well  guest appearances from ASP title winners including Taj Burrow.  Too bad this surfers paradise has a "guest list only" but someday we are all hoping it will open up to the public for a reasonable price.

Check out some wave pools near you.
http://www.waveloch.com/global-destinations

Slater claims gold at Hurley Pro, Trestles CA

Kelly Slater celebrated a much needed victory this past Saturday September 18th at the Hurley Pro in Orange County.  With smaller than usual conditions Kelly and many other top ranked ASP surfers went to town on the chest to head high sets that gave surfers clean right hand lines.  Though Kelly seemed to be on his top game,  Bede Durbidge the young gun hailing from AUS, put Slater to the test after defeating the well known and top ranked Dane Reynolds and earning the silver medal.

After the victory at Trestles, Slater took the ASP tour lead with 40,000 points. Another challenging competition is right around the corner for the gold seeking Floridan who hopes to win his 10th ASP title come the beginning of December.  Nest stop is in five days,  overseas to the Quiksilver Pro France, good luck Kelly!