Clay Marzo. Two words that say so much in the surfing world. Whether you see him on Hawaii's coast ripping big airs or waiting for a set of waves as he anxiously rubs his hands there's no way of denying his talent. Clay has produced some of the best movies to come out in surfing such as: Young Guns I and II, Fish Out of Water and Stranger than Fiction. Also he has made himself known as a pro surfer at the young age of sixteen when he moved to the west coast of Maui. Around the same time the unique "big air" style surfer was challenged with a lot more than just trying to succeed in catching waves.
In 2007 Clay was diagnosed with asperger syndrome which is a case of Autism. What makes this young gun so interesting is that when he was diagnosed, doctors told him the best medicine was in fact staying in the water and doing what he loves best, the challenge at hand (which is very rare) is brought upon Clay when he is outside of the water. People with an Autism syndrome such as asperger has a limited set of interests that they succeed in, in Marzo's case it's Surfing in god's best gift to nature, the water. While in the water studies shows Clay acting natural by collecting his facts and figures meaning he feels at one with family, friends and fellow surf peers. His constant rubbing of hands while surfing is his natural way of releasing his stress prior to the water.
It is so confusing to many including myself because those who have never seen him rip up head-high, barrelling sets with big ass airs, are really missing out. This kid has so much talent in the water he doesn't know what to do with it. Although he might seem to get more attention in the surfing world due to his case of Autism (don't be fooled kooks - beginning surfers),but I wouldn't drop in on him (cut him off on a wave) any day of the week.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
0 comments:
Post a Comment